Designer Denim

Selvedge and raw indigo

Selvedge denim comes off shuttle looms that weave a self-finished edge into the cloth, so the outseam shows a clean band when the hem is turned up. Han Kjøbenhavn cut its pair from Japanese-woven selvedge, and a dark indigo Prada Milano pair is selvedge as well. Raw denim is left unwashed after weaving and sewing, so the indigo fades mainly where the jeans are worn; raw indigo from Prada includes a tapered men's cut and a vintage women's pair named for its fading.

Washes, finishes and distressing

The Acne Studios titles carry the house's wash names: Stay Cash for a deep black, Worn Gray, Light Vintage blue and a burnished light gray with frayed hems. The Helmut Lang cargo pants are black stonewash, while a Ralph Lauren pair has a blue-and-white acid wash. Finishes are part of the design: patchwork and paint splatter from Dolce & Gabbana, red-backed slashes on an FW05 Poem pair, abrasions on the Dsquared2 Kenny and hand-painted Daicock artwork on vintage Evisu. Most pairs were made in Italy, several Acne Studios in Albania or Turkey.

Wash, wear and the photos

We photograph each pair ourselves, as it is, so the pair in the pictures is the one you receive. Rips, patches and paint that belong to the design are listed among the features; wear beyond them is what the condition grade describes. Look closely at the knees, thighs, hems and back pockets.

FAQ

Rigid cotton or stretch: how can I tell?

Descriptions list the fiber content. The Han Kjøbenhavn, Dsquared2 and Dolce & Gabbana patchwork pairs are pure cotton, while the Acne Studios blacks blend in elastane. Rigid cotton molds to you with wear; stretch gives from the first day.

Is all the denim here jeans?

Not all. Prada Milano black denim shorts sit here, as do the Helmut Lang cargo pants. Jackets are under Denim Jackets, fits and sizing under Jeans.

Will washing fade the denim?

It can. Wash denim rarely, inside out and cold, then hang it to dry; black and dark indigo lose depth fastest in hot water.